Fly Fishing Flies by Regions of the Country

I thought this information on flies for the different regions of the country were interesting. I have notice that a lot of the same flies would work anywhere in the country. I know I would add the bugger and the grey ghost streamer to the South Region for sure. Take a look at your region and see if the flies listed are the ones you would actually be using. In other words have these guys pretty much peg the flies for all the regions?  Check out your region

Fishing the Porcupine Fish Attractor

Well for the past couple of days I have been assembling Porcupine fish attractors. For those of you have never heard of this contraption, it is a fish attracting magnet. For those of you who know of its capabilities then you can relate to its ability to attract and hold fish in the particular area you have placed the attractor. I have been using them for the past three years and have had great success catching everything from the big crappie you have seen on some of my post to bluegills and of course bass. You can fish off of it year round and with practically any fishing rig. My brother and I fish them in the hot summer months for monster crappie, bluegill and bass. The main fishing rig in the summer time is the crappie 11ft. long rod, with a tube or buck tail jig. Why the crappie pole, the fish are holding tight in the attractor so you need to keep the lure in the strike zone for longer periods of time and this is the perfect rig for that application. Another good time to fish the attractor is in the dead of the winter, and again the long crappie rod is the perfect setup. The fish are not going to move much to attack the lure so patience is the key for the hit. Fall is great because you can fish faster using the micro light rigs using curly tail jigs tipped with crappie nibblets. The nibblet is a must for all crappie fishing when near the attractors. It just adds that extra bump you may get on that slow day. Spring is the least desirable time to fish the attractors because most of your fish are in the spawning mode and have moved out of deep water to shallower water to spawn. I am not saying you can’t catch fish at this time of the year on the attractors but it is much slower.

This is the 6 1/2 ft. version, I like this size better than any size I have worked with. There are 26 holes you will need to fill with your PVC pipe, but as you can see it makes for a cozy place for fish to take up residence. Check out the footage in this video to see the results.

The last accessory you need but not an absolute must is the color selector. This unit is perfect on those days when the fish is in a finicky mood. Once you have fish a lake for a while you can gauge what color the fish want most of time. I do know that on those off days the color selector has turned a slow day into a productive one for me.
 The attractors can be pricy, so if you know anything about me when it comes to purchasing fishing equipment, you know I am in for the bargain. Amazon sells the complete unit with the green ball or sphere and the ¾” PVC pipes at 55.00 a unit with shipping. I have found it is best to buy the sphere ball from Mack's Prairie Wings, with free shipping. Buy your PVC pipe at a place like Marvin’s and the whole unit will run you about 18.00. For 18.00 you are getting an attractor 6 ½ ft. in dia or any size you want to make it. I have found the 6 ½ ft. to be the very best size to deal with for me and at the same time will cover a good area in the water column. This price is much better for my budget. As for placement that is left up to the individual, but you want to be sure and place them far enough away from the bank that your average bank fisherman on the bank and in a boat will not find them easily. All the units I have placed are in deeper water far away from the bank. I do know with some of the advance depth finders out on the market they stand a chance of them being found, but most of the time this is your bass fisherman who may be fishing with a worm or jig and has no interest in crappie or bluegill. Never put the units together on the water, always put them together on the bank and carry it out to your spot which, should already be marked with a marker. Always select a time of the day at daybreak or just before dark to drop the units that way hopefully no one will see what you are doing. The very best time to drop them is in the dead of the winter when no on is on the lake.
In closing the very best advantage in fishing the attractor, is the lifetime fishing one will get from it. You your kids, their kids and so on can fish them for as long as there is water in the lake. I will be putting three out on Wednesday of this week; with the air temps in the lower 40’s hopefully no one will see what we are doing that day. I will be doing some more posts on their progress. By the way I am getting no cut in sales of this product for this post, it is something I just want to share with you guys.

Fishing With Scent Attractors

 What kind of role does scent play when you are fishing? For me as far as warm water fishing is concerned it is paramount in attracting fish. I know I have been on the water number of times and not catching fish and added a scent attractor to the lure and got the hit. This is especially true when I am using spinning gear. There are lots of attractor brands on the market, not to mention the scent impregnated plastic lures. One of my favorite is the crappie nibblet. I can add a tiny crappie nibblet to one of the hooks on my lure and get the fish to take the lure quicker, especially on those slow days. I have used the sprays and liquids but got away from those some years ago when I realized that the nibblet stays with the lure longer than the sprays and liquid, which usually washed off after numbers of cast.

As for trout fishing attractors, for me there is no substitute better than a well tied fly to imitate the real thing. I feel that using attractor would inhibit the performance of the fly. If you are really into using a scent attractor on your flies then try some mud at the bottom of the stream rubbed over your fly, that is about as close as I would come to odor on flies.

I am a firm believer in masking human scent especially when I am trout fishing. According to research trout have amazing powers of smell, in fact much, much better than humans. Let's say you have used Ole Spice aftershave the morning you are hitting the stream. You get to the stream and tie on your favorite fly and you immediately transfer the smell of the aftershave onto the fly. This sends an alarm to the trout that this particular fly is not real and in a heartbeat the trout is gone. I am not as careful masking scent in warm water situations but when it come to trout you are dealing with a fish that is much smarter and more wary of its surrounding, so you need every advantage you can muster to be successful. What's your take on the scent attractor factor when you are fishing?

What is Your All Time Favorite Fish Catch

I know it may be difficult for some to remember the time they caught that trophy fish, or the time they caught all those fish in one particular place, but I have a feeling that most you guys know that TIME. When it comes to fishing I seldom ever forget the trips or the fish that really stood out in my mind. I can still remember the trip at daylight some 25 years ago with my brother and landed not one but two largemouth on buzzbaits that morning. I have both mounted and both were between 7 and 8 lbs. I can also remember the largest crappie I ever landed in Mississippi a couple of years ago, which was 14" long, really don't know the weight. The bluegills are too many to remember, but the 14 through 16 oz. really stand out in my mind. Most all of the big gills were landed using the fly rod. With all that said----My most memorable trip or fish had to be the 3 1/2 lb. spot I caught last October using the fly rod with a big popper. I hope someday I can best that record. I am curious to know what's the time or fish that you will never forget.

Why Did I Lose That Trophy Fish?

 I often wonder sometimes if I am actually playing the fish correctly using the fly rod. There is a big difference in landing a fish on the fly as oppose to the landing a fish on spinning gear. You have the drag as an aid with the spinning reel or casting reel, but in the case of the fly reel you are dependent on your expertise with releasing and taking up line until you get the fish on your reel. That is why I love using the fly rod so much because it gives me the opportunity to use all my fishing skills to land the fish with pretty much no drag help. It is just me and that fish at each other.

 I know I played the big spot I caught back in September correctly, because I landed him after a lengthy fight; but I can remember times when I have lost fish because I didn't take the time to play the fish to the point where I could land it. The article below is one of the best I have read on landing a fish, and how to release the fish after the battle. I hope the article is helpful to you as well.



How to Play and Land a Trout Correctly

There is overwhelming urge yelling in your mind to lift the rod-tip up before removing all slack between the rod tip and the fish.
It is one of the most important aspects of fly-fishing, yet it is one of the most often ignored in books, magazines, videos and the like.

You can read and view plenty about flies, fly tying, knots, casting, presentation, finding fish, tackle selection, et al, but what about playing and landing the fish once you have inwardly digested all that stuff and actually find yourself attached to one of these fabled fishes? Help is at hand.

O.K. so there you stand, thinking about how much you would like to be back at work, stripping the line in through you rod-hand forefinger. Suddenly your reverie is broken by some damn-fool fish grabbing your fly. What happens next?

The first requirement is to ‘set’ the hook.

Setting the hook means embedding the hook securely in the fish. Achieve this by pulling down sharply on the line using your line hand, but always ensuring the line remains sliding through the forefinger of your rod-hand. But, just pulling down on the line is only of any use if the line is tight to the fish. Just pulling on the line with the rod tip up, while there is any slack in the system, will only lift slack line off the water, and not move the hook at all.

So, many anglers pull on the line hand and lift the rod-tip up, sharply. While this looks spectacular, it is often ineffectual, unless you are close to the fish. But even then there is trouble right here at river city.


If you manage to set the hook, you are now standing there with rod tip high in the air. If the trout moves towards you, you have the Devil’s own job to avoid introducing slack again - you cannot lower the rod because that will form more slack - at which point many anglers select the panic option.

A much better way is to fish with the rod tip low to the water, and when a fish hits, move the rod tip in the direction of any curve of line on the water.

The red lines indicate the fly lines on the water water. The arrow           indicates the direction the rod tip should move to set the hook.

This means that if you have, for example, a curve or slack line on the water, move the rod tip in the direction of the section of the curve nearest to the rod tip. Keep the rod tip just above the water and move it parallel to the water, while pulling down sharply with the line hand. It is important to not take the rod tip behind you.

This method uses the 'grip' of the water itself, and the current, to 'anchor' the line, and transfer the power of the pull more directly to the hook. If the fish runs toward you can leave the line on the water and use the loop formed on the water by the current to maintain pressure on the hook.

I want to reiterate this point about leaving the line on the water. There is an almost overwhelming urge yelling in your mind to lift the rod tip up before removing all slack between the rod tip and the fish. The water, the current, and the trout, all pulling at the line will hold the hook in a fish's mouth till you can get everything up tight - there is simply no need to lift the rod tip until you are sure all slack will be removed by doing so.

If the line is tight to the fish when it takes the fly, usually only a short line-pull is necessary to set the hook. It is worthwhile to remember a fly hook only needs to move about 2-3mm (1/4") to penetrate past the barb on even the biggest hooks used for freshwater fly-fishing. Very often just the force exerted on slack-free line, when the fish turns away with the fly in its mouth, will set the hook without any interference from you.

Now with the fish firmly attached you can set about fighting the fish, and I need here to divide this bit into two sections - big trout and not-so-big.

Not-so-Big

If you are fishing where it is very unusual for trout to take your line out into the 'backing'the thin line running from the fly-line and onto the reel and fish do not get much over 1.5 to 2kg (3 to 4lb) you can play the fish using the line only, without using the reel at all. Hold the rod at an angle of about 45 degrees to you body, point the rod tip toward the line coming off the water (never at the fish, unless of course the line is tight to the fish) and use your rod-hand forefinger to press the line against the rod handle.

You should try and maintain a constant bend in the rod, by gripping the line to apply tension or allowing the line to slip through your line-hand fingers, and rod-hand fore-finger. If the rod tip ducks down let the line slip. You should in general try to keep the rod at about the 45 degree angle, but if the fish really takes off lower the rod tip. The tip section is there to absorb the lunges of the trout, and to maintain constant pressure.

Your immediate job is to get the fish tight to the rod tip.

When you get an opportunity to retrieve some line, using your line hand, pull line in through your rod-hand forefinger - called 'stripping' the line. As you reach the end of a strip, grip the line with your rod-hand forefinger, and slide your line hand up to grip the line again. Your immediate job is to get the line tight between the rod tip and the fish. Then by stripping and slipping line the fish will gradually tire to the point where you can think about landing it.

If you can get the line onto the reel, you should do so.
Having loose coils of line wafting around in the water or on the ground is inviting disaster. I could not even begin to estimate how many fish I have lost, and seen lost, from line tangling around legs, rocks and boulders, shore debris and undergrowth. Having the line going directly onto the reel will help when you come to land the fish.

Bigger Fish

If you are lucky enough to fish where trout regularly exceed 2kg (4lb) and often a great deal more and backing is something you regularly see flying off the reel, your main aim is to get the fish onto the reel as soon as possible.

If the fish bolts downstream let the line slip through the forefinger of your line hand under light pressure, with no pressure from your rod hand, till the line comes tight onto the reel.

If the fish races upstream leave your rod tip down at water level and facing the direction of the line - not the fish - let any loose line you have, slip through your fingers till the line comes tight to the reel, even if there is a big bow of line between you and the fish. The bow of line will maintain pressure on the hook.

Then once the line is tight to the reel start winding at a frantic pace, following the line with the rod tip until you can lift the rod tip up to 45 degrees without introducing any slack.

If the fish jumps 'bow to the fish'

Once the line is on the reel you can use the reel’s drag system to release line evenly. If you have no drag system use your line hand cupped lightly under the reel onto the spool rim. Try not to get your fingers in the way of the whirling reel-handles when a big fish runs, unless pain is your close and dear friend.

If the fish jumps, 'bow to the fish'. That is, lower your rod tip quickly to give the fish some slack. A jumping fish can put real strain on your leader, especially if it falls back onto taunt line.

You need to be very careful with a big fish that is racing downstream. You may need to lower the rod tip to reduce the strain on the line; this is especially true if there is a bow in the line from a fish changing direction to race downstream from upstream of you. This is another of those occasions when you must fight the urge to raise the rod.

The End Game

So you have done everything right and the fish is now tired and looks as though it might be possible to land it. This is a critical time in this game.

Trying to net a fish on your own is often problematical.
To get the net under the fish you need to lift the rod tip high to reduce the angle between the fish and the net. But lifting a rod tip high with the line running down close to the rod to the fish risks breaking the rod. It is called ‘point-loading’, and means that the weight of the fish is transmitted down the rod, not along it. This puts to much pressure on the weak tip section of the rod. This is a very real problem with fish over 2.5kg (5lbs). The best solution I have found is to use a landing net with a collapsible or extendable handle.

Once you have the fish where you can net it, pull the fish head-first gently over the rim of the net, then flick up that rim and lift the net at the same time. If all goes well the fish will be at the bottom of your net.

If the fish ‘freaks’ at the sight or touch of the net, do not ‘chase’ it with the net, let the fish swim off and then carefully move it into position again for another attempt.

If you are going to release the fish, keep as much of the fish in the water as possible still in the net, remove the hook, lower the net, hold the fish into the current and let it swim away when it is ready.

Of course having a fishing partner lurking about to net your fish makes life a whole lot easier.

Sometimes it is easier to ‘beach’ a fish. If it is possible to move back onto a bank, it can be easier to slide a fish gently into shallow water. This is often very true when trying to land fish over 3kg (6lb), and sometimes the only way to land fish 5kg (10lb) and over.

If you are planning to release the fish do not pull it up onto dry land – dry sand, rock or vegetation, all will wreak havoc with a trout’s slime covering which is used to repel bad stuff in the water. Instead quickly remove the hook; gently turn the fish back towards deeper water and hold its head into the current till it moves off under its own steam.

The key thing to remember when trying to land a trout (in fact any fish) is to try and keep things as smooth as possible. Constant, unrelenting pressure against the fish’s attempts to escape is what tires it out. Jerking the rod about, not releasing line smoothly when the fish runs, all can lead to the hook pulling out or the leader breaking. Smooth firmness is required when you come to the end game and try and net or beach your prize.

Fishing the Famous Wooly Bugger

 Probably the most famous of all flies in fly fishing is the Wooly Bugger. Whether you fish this fly for warm water species or cold water species you should be successful. Crappie, bass, bluegills, strips, spots, smallmouth, and of course trout hit this fly with vigor. I receive a number of fishing publications each month which give me a lot of great information on fishing. I recently read a great article on the Bugger in one of the publications and I thought I would share it with you guys. As always I learn something I didn’t know about fishing the Wooly Bugger, and I hope you pick up some information you can use as well.

How to Use a Wooly Bugger When Fly Fishing

Fly fishermen tend to agree that the Wooly Bugger lure is one of the best for catching the big ones. The Wooly Bugger is a big lure, and there are a variety of ways it can be cast and presented to the fish.

Instructions

Dead drift the bugger by adding a few jerking actions. Use the bugger for larger fish like lake trout and steelhead salmon. Arctic char, bluegill, northern pike, and even carp have found this lure hard to resist. However you chose to fish this lure, it can't be fished wrong. Crawling, creeping, darting, floating, and sinking are just some of the ways you can present the wooly bugger.

Weigh down the Wooly Bugger by using either a split-shot, a bead, or a cone head on the front of the shank of your rod to produce a bouncing action. When the lures land on the bottom of the lake, use a stop-and-go action. This also is called a rise-and-fall or yo-yo action.

Produce a "breathing" action to the lure by using a slow stop-and-go motion on the retrieve. Place a few BBs ahead of the lure to really turn the fish on. When casting with this method, cast upstream and across the current.

Produce a swimming action, focusing on the marabou on the tail of the Wooly Bugger. This helps to imitate swimming bait such as larva, tadpoles, or leeches to hungry fish. Put a bit of glimmer on the lure to make sure the fish see the bait.

Imitate smaller fish when the water is low and near a steep drop off such as a waterfall. This action replicates the movement of a little fish that has been
stunned by a steep landing. Cast and let the lure drift. Use a quick jerking action followed by a quick retrieve.

Devise different actions according to the water conditions. Slow action is recommended on small creeks or rivers. Faster action is recommended on lakes.

Snowed in with My Daughter and Grandson

We seldom ever get this kind of snowfall in the south, but this one is an exception. I am in Spring Hill Tennessee with my daughter and grandson Bryson. My son-in-law B.T. had to go on a business trip for the week. My daughter wanted some company and didn't want to stay by herself so I volunteered to keep them company for the week. I thought I would share some of the pictures we took this morning. We got around 6" here and places south of us got as much as 13" unreal for the deep south.

The creek behind My Sons-in-law and Daughter's House

Park behind the house

The Auburn Flay flying proudly

Bryson more interested in the snow, not the picture taking

Not happy in Mama's arms, would rather be in the snow

Suitable for Framing

My best buddy

Question About Line Weight

 Thought I would start the New Year off by putting a question out there for all you guys. What is your opinion on using a larger weight line with a smaller weight rod? I know some of you probably have apply this concept to your fishing arsenal, and some of you stick with the given rule of using the same weight light with the same weight rod. I also know there are advantages and disadvantages in going this route, with the line and the rod. So I am curious to know what your opinion is on this particular set-up. Thinking about, planning, and chopping at the bits to get back out on the water.